Written by:
Gillian Kendall
Photographer:
Gillian Kendall
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this Issue of Curve:
Vol. 11#8
Acres of white, sandy beach curve into the distance, strewn with shells, lapped by warm water. Russet-colored sunshine sparkles a Hallmark path to the setting sun. I have been dreading the trip to Paradise for some time.
Much as I love Florida, my parents live here. My father and I have never gotten along, and my mother and I haven’t been close since I came out. But it’s been two years since I’ve seen my 80-plus-year-old parents, and it might be longer than that before I get another chance to go back. This “vacation” is starting to look like just another growth opportunity.
Without dredging up our dysfunctional history, let’s just say that when I go to see my parents, I travel not only 2,500 miles but also about 25 years back in time. I leave California a happy, confident lesbian, but arrive on the central Gulf Coast a quivering, adolescent wreck.
Fortunately, the island where my parents live is referred to as “Paradise,” and the mainland offers many diversions. I will spend the first nights at the parental abode, but then hide myself in a lesbian stronghold for the remainder of my stay. Also, I decide to make daily forays to the beach, to the bars — anywhere I can be around queers.
Sarasota, aka “The Cultural Coast” in tourism lingo, offers three main avenues of entertainment. You can spend money, commune with nature, or go see the girls. (For more information on the latter, see sidebar.) For an introduction to all things Sarasotan, hit the tourist office (at 655 Tamiami Trail, it looks like a cross between a Japanese teahouse and an IHOP) for maps, coupons, and the entertainment papers. Then you can start spending money.
Downtown Sarasota has a little intersection of cool and culture at Main and Palm streets. It’s a pleasant place to spend the afternoon and a paycheck, though there’s little you haven’t seen before in this klatch of antique stores, home décor centers, cafés, sushi bars and art galleries — which range from good (Chasen Galleries) to dreadful (you’ll see). Have an artistic meal (try the wonderful insalata di tonno) at Café Epicure, then wander down the street to drink coffee (at Bein and Joffrey’s), smoke a cigar, and look around the independently owned Sarasota News and Books.
More of the same, but more expensive, thrives at St. Armand’s Circle, just off the mainland. The circle of chic establishments includes boutiques that sell fancy clothes, and lots of places to take your mummy for lunch. My mother and I know to skip the trendy, overrated Tony Bahamas, and we always eat at the classic Columbia Restaurant — elegantly Cuban, with linen tablecloths. Get a carafe of sangria, some garbanzo-bean soup and tell your mother about your girlfriend. The entrées are a vegetarian’s nightmare, but the most famous dish in the house is the ham-and-cheese “1905” salad, a memorable, garlicky, refreshing meal served with soft, warm Cuban rolls.
In terms of the arts, downtown Sarasota boasts world-class symphony, theater, ballet and so on. Performances peak in the fall, but there’s something happening year-round. For the visual arts, the main attraction is the John and Mable Ringling Museum of Art. On the grounds of the mansion where the Ringlings lived, their art collection has spilled out into a huge pink and classically styled museum and wonderful gardens.
For counterculture, though, head to the arts colony Towles Court. You can visit almost any afternoon, but try to see “Art by the Light of the Moon” on the third Friday of the month. For the “Stroll at Towles,” galleries and studios open up to the public, offering free wine and inexpensive original art. The café sports a rainbow flag; people of all ages, orientations and abilities (physical and artistic) wander through the 16 or so cottages, chatting, drinking and occasionally making a purchase. This walk gives visitors a fun way to meet gay-friendly locals — and it’s free!
A similar, if older, crowd frequents the Chapters bookstore in Holmes Beach — call for details on readings and book signings, or drop in for wonderful café food.
If your feet hurt from all the sidewalks, call the Sarasota School of Massage Therapy at (941) 957-4497 and make an appointment for their clinic: hour-long massages for $25!
Now for nature: You can’t find a bad beach in this area. All these long, smooth stretches have yummy water and no crowds. However, the sand at Sarasota’s central beach, the Lido, eroded about a year ago. The replacement sand is gray rather than white, so the end result resembles mismatched linoleum. Down the coast on Siesta Key or up it towards Bradenton lie prettier beaches, though you’ll fit in best at Coquina if you’re toting kids and/or a cooler full of beer.
The famous Moate Aquarium does not deserve its reputation. However, across the street (and included in the $10 admission fee) is the Marine Mammal Center, home to two adorable manatees. Plump, graceful, and slow, these endangered sea-cows warrant a visit and a donation. True manatee devotees will also want to visit Snooty, Bradenton’s famous resident.
Also across from the Moate is the Pelican Man’s Bird Sanctuary, where one man has dedicated his life to creating a safe place for birds. Go to see 39 species of birds and learn about efforts to rehabilitate and protect them.
All this R&R has worked for me. A few afternoons spent among “family” has helped me return in the evenings to my blood relatives, refreshed and ready for more opportunities for growth.
IF YOU GO:
Most queers live about an hour north of Sarasota, around St. Petersburg and Gulfport.
Pick up Womyn’s Words http://www.womynswords.org for GLBT events.
Women-only accommodations are rare, except for the funkily pleasant Changing Tides Cottages, a sweet enclosure of dwellings set on the harbor within walking distance to the Gulf as well as dining, shopping, and drinking at the women’s bar called the Back Room. The cottages offer privacy, safety, and the opportunity to socialize around the barbecue pits or fishing dock: (727) 397-7706 or women@changingtidescottages.com.
Make it a priority to visit Bridget’s Bookstore and eat at the Purple Pelican Café, a woman-owned eatery/art gallery/internet café.
Photo credits: Gillian kendall
photo courtesy http://www.simplysiesatkey.com |
